Superstorm Sandy left lots of Class 8 trucks subject to flooding from contaminated waters. The immense damage that can be caused from flooding could make you consider totaling the truck and buying a new truck. Before you make this costly decision, know it is possible to get such a truck back up and running.
If your rig was caught in the water in Superstorm Sandy, here are the procedures your mechanic should take to save your truck and save you thousands.
-
Act quickly. Once the vehicle is removed from the water, or the water recedes, it is imperative that the repairs happen quickly. When air gets to the wet iron, rust and corrosion happen very fast.
-
Do not start the engine. If the water level was high enough to fill the engine cylinders, trying to start the engine will result in a hydro lock and could bend a connecting rod or break a crankshaft. Do not turn the ignition key on.
-
Disconnect the batteries. You want to avoid supplying electrical power to the wet electrical components.
-
Drain the oil. Immediately drain the oil from the engine, change oil filters and then hook up an external pressurized oil priming system to an oil galley port in the engine block. While leaving the oil pan drain plug out, flush the engine oil system with 10 gallons of clean engine oil.
-
Check the water level. If the water level was higher than 6 inches above the line where the oil pan attaches to the engine block then there is a possibility that water may have entered the engine cylinders. If the water level was higher than this or you are not sure, perform the following procedure:
-
Remove the valve cover and injectors.
-
Rotate the crankshaft by hand (do not use the starter) and watch for water coming out of the injector bores in the cylinder head.
-
Remove as much water as possible using a vacuum pump. A turkey baster works well also.
-
Once water has been removed, pour a small amount of oil into each cylinder. About 2 ounces per cylinder is plenty.
-
Then rotate the crankshaft by hand to allow the piston rings to coat the cylinder liners with oil. This will inhibit corrosion. You can now move on to the other components of the truck.
-
Drain other fluids. Drain the transmission, axle differentials, front wheel hubs, and power steering.
-
Attend to the wheels. Remove the rear drive axle hub and wheel assemblies, clean and inspect wheel bearings and replace wheel seals. Remove steer axle hub and wheel assemblies. Clean and inspect wheel bearings and replace wheel seals.
-
Refill all components. Refill components with clean mineral oil of the appropriate type. It is not necessary to use synthetic oil, as this fill is only temporary to flush the component. If you have other fluid lubricated systems mounted on the truck, drain and refill them as well with the appropriate fluid.
-
Drain the fuel tanks. Remove the drain plugs from the bottom of the fuel tanks and allow the water to drain. Allow the tanks to drain until a clear stream of fuel comes out, then put the plugs back in.
-
Reinstall the injectors.
-
Remove the return lines. Remove the return lines to the fuel tanks and place in buckets.
-
Flush the fuel system. Attach a fuel priming system to the inlet port of the primary fuel filter and pressure flush the fuel system. Watch for water in the fuel coming out of the return lines. When fluid is all fuel, stop and disconnect the priming system and then reconnect fuel lines.
-
Refill the engine oil. Install drain plug in engine oil pan, fill with clean engine oil and change oil filters.
-
Refill the coolant. Drain, flush, and refill the cooling system with appropriate coolant.
-
Attend to the electrical system.
-
Using electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease, disconnect, clean and lightly grease all of the electrical connections in the engine compartment.
-
Remove the harness connection to the ECM and clean and lightly grease the connector, then reconnect.
-
Check for water in light fixtures, drain water and clean with electrical contact cleaner, lightly grease connections with dielectric grease.
-
Check fuse panels for moisture. If wet, clean with electrical contact cleaner and allow to dry completely.
-
Grease the chassis of the truck.
-
Load-test the batteries and replace if bad. Reconnect battery cables and watch for any possible shorts in electrical system.
-
Check all fuses.
-
Start and run engine to operating temperature. You may have some blue smoke due to the oil poured on top of cylinders. This should clear up fairly quick.
-
Run the engine. Run the engine at idle speed until it reaches operating temperature. Continue running for approximately 15 minutes. Shut down engine, change oil, oil filters, and fuel filters. Run the truck for about 50 to 75 miles to circulate the oils in the transmission and axles.
-
Drain and refill lubricants. Drain and refill the transmission, drive axles, steer axle hubs, and power steering with appropriate lubricants. Check to be sure breathers on transmission and axles are clear.
Finally you should be able to operate the truck normally. Monitor fluid levels and conditions closely. Watch for oil or coolant leaks. I recommend a complete fluid analysis at approximately 50,000 miles. (Complete fluid analysis consists of: engine oil, transmission oil, drive axle oils, and coolant.) This addresses the major issues with the truck’s drive train.
It may be a long procedure to get your truck running again after flooding, but it is certainly an option worth exploring to see if you can save your truck and save you thousands for the long haul.
Sandy's Damage
Did your truck get damaged from Superstorm Sandy?